Smith Island, Maryland: a Mysterious, Vibrant Little Getaway

Jordan Campbell

5 years ago

How Did You Even Discover Smith Island?

So, there I was… yearning for some weeklong beach getaway. And all available accommodations were just… not inspiring me. I suppose it was that it was late in the season and a lot of places had already been booked. Or that boardwalks packed like sardines and bars where all semblance of social distancing goes out the window just wasn’t getting me excited. So, I did what I do and started searching for something a little outside-the-box. That’s when I discovered Smith Island on Atlas Obscura.

The more I read, the more intrigued I was. This place is my kinda jam. For sure. An isolated island civilization with a legit Elizabethan accent just a couple hours away? Count. me. in. There’s a lot to know about this little place. A lot to do. And a lot of carefully planned logistics required to get there. So keep reading. And learn how this unusual little Chesapeake island stole my heart.

A weathered red wooden building with rustic charm, likely a restaurant or ice cream shop, features hand-painted signs for "Ice Cream," "Floats," and "Milkshakes." The front porch has peeling paint and boarded-up windows, with a wooden ramp leading to the entrance. Greenery surrounds the building, adding to its aged, small-town atmosphere.

A ripe pomegranate hangs from a branch surrounded by vibrant green leaves. The fruit’s reddish-brown skin stands out against the foliage, with light filtering through the leaves, giving the scene a natural, fresh appearance. The pomegranate is nearly ready for harvest, indicating the peak of its ripeness.

The Ewell House - a large, two-story white house with green shutters and a weathered roof stands on a well-maintained lawn. The house features a prominent front porch with four white columns and a small set of steps leading to the front door, flanked by two wooden benches. The overall appearance suggests an older, classic architectural style with a peaceful, rural setting.

An old, weathered white house in Ewell, Maryland with a red roof and two brick chimneys sits partially hidden behind overgrown greenery. The house has peeling paint, giving it an abandoned or forgotten appearance, while the lush vegetation around it adds a sense of nature reclaiming the space. Its rustic charm contrasts with the wild growth surrounding it.

A close-up of a house roof shows a red brick chimney rising from a weathered, red shingle roof with visible wear and dark stains. The white gable with peeling paint and a small window beneath adds to the aged appearance of the structure, suggesting years of exposure to the elements. The scene captures a sense of neglect and rustic character.

Tall, green reeds with brown, feathery seed heads sway gently in a grassy field under a cloudy sky. The dense cluster of plants creates a natural, serene landscape, with the tops of the reeds standing out against the soft, muted backdrop of the sky. The scene evokes a peaceful, breezy day in a wetland or meadow.

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All About Smith Island

The Island Itself

Smith Island sits in the Chesapeake Bay right on the Maryland-Virginia border. For “DMV” residents (Delaware-Maryland-Virginia), it’s just north of Virginia’s Tangier Island, if you’re at all familiar with that. It’s only accessible by boat and, while you will find vehicles on the island, yours… isn’t allowed. (I’ll be honest, though, there’s really not much of a need for one, anyway.)

Smith Island has around 200 year-round residents all told. These residents live primarily in three different itty bitty towns, all located on the Maryland side of the island—Ewell (“the capital”), Rhodes Point, and Tylerton. While Ewell and Rhodes Point are connected by a road, to reach Tylerton, you’d have to go, again, by boat. Just north of the island is Maryland’s Martin National Wildlife Refuge.

Two tall pine trees stand by a serene body of water, surrounded by marsh grass under a clear blue sky. A white egret wades in the shallow water, adding a peaceful element to the natural landscape.

The Smith Island Accent

The island was settled in the 17th century and has managed to retain its “relic accent,” attributed to the Cornwall and Dorset regions of the United Kingdom. It’s technically referred to as an “Elizabethan accent” and is super similar to North Carolina’s Ocracoke Brogue, or High Tider dialect. To me, it sounds like a mix between super rural Southern and Irish (in some instances). But I’m no linguist.

Smith Island Cake, The Official State Dessert of Maryland

Smith Island Cake is a distinctive kind of cake, and one that was eventually named the official Maryland state dessert.

It’s anywhere from 8–15 layers, made with condensed milk. It also typically uses fudge frosting, instead of buttercream, since fudge held longer for watermen on autumn oyster harvest.

The cake is usually a yellow cake with chocolate frosting, but comes in a plethora of flavor combinations for tourists. The #AP4L and I tried chocolate… and lemon… and coconut-pineapple…

A slice of layered chocolate smith island cake with rich frosting sits on a plate, accompanied by fresh, juicy strawberry halves. The cake features multiple thin layers of sponge cake and chocolate filling, creating a visually appealing and appetizing dessert. — Photo Credit: Jane Thomas, Wikimedia Creative Commons

Things To Do On Smith Island

I actually kind of feel like things to do on Smith Island could be an entire post unto itself—and maybe I’ll write one elaborating further on all the details—but, for all intents and purposes of an introductory article…

Kayak the Smith Island Waterways

Smith Island is home to miles and miles of marshland waterways and kayaks can be found all over the island. Our AirBnB cottage had a couple for use free of charge, and from what I could tell in my lodging search, most rentals there offer the same.

Go it alone, or hire a guide. Suggested paddles include going down to Tylerton or across the way to “Goat Island,” an island inhabited by non-indigenous, free-range goats. (Yes, there is a story there.) A good place to find other water trails and maps is Paddle Smith Island.

A white goat with large, curved horns is partially hidden among lush green bushes. The goat's head and horns are prominently visible, contrasting with the dense foliage that surrounds it.

Crabbing, Oystering, or Fishing

Crabbing and oystering are the primary method of income for the residents of Smith Island. And you can hire local residents to take you out for the day. You can also support the local economy by purchasing fresh crabs for dinner or ordering them ready-made. Information on both can be found online, but you can also literally just show up to the island and ask a neighbor.

A tranquil waterside scene featuring a small dock with boats tied up next to rustic buildings, reflecting in the calm water under a sky with scattered clouds. A wooden post with a rope in the foreground adds depth to the picturesque setting.

Ride a Bike to Rhodes Point

This was a super fun mini-escapade for the #AdventurePartnerForLife and I. Bike rentals (old bikes) can be made at the Bayside Inn in Ewell. You can do a whole day, of course, but we just did a couple hours. Enough to bike the two miles to Rhodes Point and back.

The fun part was that the tide comes in midday and covers the one road over, so we cycled over through the water in our sandals, which was sometimes more than six inches deep. You could see the crabs skittering away as you biked past, but every now and then, one would bow up and throw its claws around. (Don’t worry—blue crabs are pretty small and mostly harmless.)

I’ll be honest that there’s not much to see in Rhodes Point itself (a boat graveyard at the very end of the road, some super old homes, and an interesting enough cemetery), but the marshland and birdlife on the way out is incredible.

A weathered wooden boardwalk stretches across a grassy marsh, leading to a small, rustic crabbing shack that sits near the water's edge. The bright green marshland contrasts with the clear blue sky above, creating a peaceful, open landscape. In the distance, a small cluster of trees adds depth to the tranquil scene.

An old wooden boat, partially covered with ropes and fishing gear, rests in tall marsh grass beside a calm body of water. In the background, a small white building with a weathered roof sits near the water's edge, surrounded by fishing equipment. The clear blue sky and tranquil water create a serene, coastal atmosphere.

An old, weathered boat named "Madison Grace" from Rhodes Point, Maryland, sits on stilts on dry land, showing signs of rust and decay. The red and white hull displays fading paint, and the deck appears cluttered with remnants of wood and equipment. The clear blue sky and sparse utility poles in the background emphasize the boat's abandonment and the rural, coastal environment.

A row of old, weathered houses with peeling paint and damaged roofs stand in a grassy area under a bright blue sky. The nearest house has green shutters and missing shingles, with other homes in the background showing similar signs of neglect. The overgrown greenery and rustic wooden fences enhance the scene's sense of abandonment in a quiet, rural setting.

A low-angle view of a weathered wooden boardwalk surrounded by tall marsh grass leads to a small, rustic shack in the distance. The vibrant greenery contrasts with the bright blue sky, creating a peaceful, natural scene. The overgrown grass encroaching onto the boardwalk enhances the feeling of seclusion in this coastal or marshland setting.

A small, weathered yellow boat rests on gravel near overgrown greenery, with calm water and a dock in the background. A distant shack sits by the water’s edge, framed by a clear blue sky. The tranquil setting evokes a peaceful coastal or lakeside environment, with the boat adding a sense of quiet abandonment.

Visit the Smith Island Cultural Center

The Smith Island Cultural Center is small, but mighty. It’s super easy to find if you’re in Ewell and definitely worth a quick tour. Learn about the incredibly interesting island history and have a chat with the locals. Keep in mind the island population is so small, all the families know each other—and have for generations—and they’re almost all descendants of the original settlers on the island. If you visit the Ewell or Rhodes Point cemeteries, you’ll see Evans, Tylers, and Whitelocks galore.

Boat Over to Tylerton

Sadly, we didn’t make it over to Tylerton during our stay on Smith island, but we did hear good things. So, someone go and report back to me! There are regularly scheduled boat rides over from Ewell, and I’m told the architecture there is pretty interesting. If you’re anything like me, you could probably wander around for a solid couple hours just photographing.

A peaceful waterside scene at sunset, featuring a wooden post with a coiled rope in the foreground and a serene expanse of water reflecting the colorful sky. In the distance, a small tree-lined island and a vivid horizon complete the picturesque view.

Relax On a Private Beach

Another thing we didn’t get to experience—chillin’ on a private beach. Though we were invited to by locals, so I know it’s an option. And I think there are several locations to choose from, too. Just ask someone and take a kayak. Had it not been our very first night on the island after a day of driving and boating, we probably would’ve joined them because, frankly, it sounds like a dream.

Bird-Watching

The birdlife is absolutely incredible on Smith Island. I can’t stress this enough. I wouldn’t exactly call myself a “bird-watcher” and I’m certainly not an ornithologist, but I couldn’t get enough of the birds there. They’re everywhere, and they’re unafraid. On our bike ride, we got so close to massive birds before they even blinked at us. And, on our return ferry ride, I saw the most gigantic pelican. Definitely a fun find.

A white egret stands gracefully in shallow water, surrounded by tall, vibrant green marsh grass. The bird's reflection shimmers on the water's surface, adding to the serene and natural ambiance of the scene.

A white egret stands alone in the shallow waters of a marsh, with tall green and brown grasses in the background. The bird's poised stance and the calm water create a tranquil and natural scene.

Mingle With The Locals

One of my favorite parts of this getaway was talking to the locals and learning all about the island and family history from folks. The family lineages go way, way back, and there’s a lot of history between the families that can be unpacked. …We even heard a little shade thrown here and there.

How To Get To Smith Island

I wouldn’t say getting to Smith Island is “difficult” per se, but I will say that there’s not that much information available online and it was just a touch tricky, so read the following details carefully.

Smith Island Ferry Departure Details

The ferry departs to Ewell and Tylerton year-round from Crisfield, Maryland. I’m finding there are also seasonal departures from Point Lookout, Maryland and Reedville, Virginia as well, but I can’t personally confirm those details.

While there are a couple of boat options, we jumped on Captain Otis Tyler’s Island Belle II, which also happens to serve as the Smith Island mail boat. It departs the Crisfield City Dock twice a day at 12:30 and 5:00 pm and takes about 45 minutes. Return ferries are 7:00 am and 3:30 pm daily.*
The city dock is the picturesque dock at the very end of Highway 413, which is also West Main Street. I couldn’t say if the ferry docks at the same slip consistently, but there aren’t really defined slips at this dock. For us, it was just to the left on the other side of a covered sitting area. (Before the sort of big dock gazebo at the very, very end.)
Update June 2024: Back when we went, it was $20 per person each way, paid in cash on the boat itself. What with inflation, the price has probably gone up by now, but they don’t post prices on any website. You have to call their number to get prices. (We saw tons and tons of boat tour offices in Crisfield that made us think we needed to pre-book tickets. You do not need to do this.) There was a discount for same-day round-trip rides, but I don’t know if that’s still the case. Either way, let Captain Otis know your return plans.
We contacted Captain Otis ahead of time each ride and they drove our cooler and bags to and from the house for us so we didn’t have to drag it down the road ourselves. (It wouldn’t have been horribly difficult to do and isn’t far anyway, but if you’ve got a big family with a lot of stuff, it might not be that awesome.)
You can also check out Smith Island Cruises for an alternative option. Their website has more info online about dates, discounts, and group rates, and an option to book online if you want to plan ahead.

*While the return ferry times might not seem the most convenient, we learned that chartering a private boat for the ride is in the $200–$300 range, so just suck it up.

A serene coastal scene at dusk, featuring a solitary boat in the distance against a backdrop of a blue sky with hints of pink. A small patch of land with a few trees juts out into the water, adding a tranquil element to the expansive view of the sea.

Where To Leave Your Car In Crisfield

Parking is available in Crisfield for a nominal fee. It took us awhile to figure out where to park and how to pay, so the information in this particular section is gold. (See accompanying photos and map below.)

You park in a grassy area in front of “JP [something] & [something] Lumber,” right at the corner of North 11th and Broad Streets. There will be a row of cars already there and, when you see the building I’m referencing, you’ll know exactly what I’m talking about with the name, so don’t worry. It’s a beige building with an orange roof.
There’s a small metal dropbox by the front door where you pay cash for parking. (It says there’s a camera, but I’m pretty sure it’s just an honor system.) It was $3 per day. (But again, inflation, so probably changed now… not that the internet will tell me the exact price…) So bring cash and bring some singles.
Our car was parked there for five days and was totally fine.

The exterior of a metal building with a red roof, partially showing the sign "J.P. WE LUMB." Two cars are parked in front on a patch of grass under a clear blue sky. The building appears to be a commercial property, possibly a lumber or hardware store.

A metal payment box with two padlocks has several signs attached. One sign reads "Parking: $3.00 per Night, Cash or Check," another says "SMILE! YOU'RE ON CAMERA" with a smiley face and an eye graphic, and a third instructs "Make Checks Payable To: Stephanie T. Fykes." The box is used for collecting parking fees.

Practical Information

Oh, you know there’s gonna be some strange info with this little island. Which is exactly why I wanted to visit it.

Transportation

As mentioned before, you can’t take your car to the island. But you can rent golf carts and bikes at Ewell’s Bayside Inn. You cannot take the golf carts all the way to Rhodes Point from Ewell, unfortunately, because they’ll die, but the bikes are a free-for-all.

The bikes are old and a little janky, but there’s a small selection to choose from and they ride somewhat fine. (We both had at least one really low tire, but the #AP4L suggested it was for gripping. I’m not so sure…)

A weathered bicycle with a front basket is parked on a gravel path beside a calm marina, featuring wooden docks and several moored boats. The sky is filled with scattered clouds, adding a serene and slightly overcast atmosphere to the picturesque waterfront scene.

Cell Signals & WiFi Are Spotty

We never really had cell signals while there. And the WiFi at the cottage randomly crashed a few times for an hour to a couple hours at a time. Nevertheless, the #AdventurePartner was able to work remotely fairly seamlessly, I’m just not sure I’d 1000% count on it.

There Are No ATMs

There are no ATMs on the island and everything is cash-based, so do come prepared. Things you might want to spend money on while you’re there include boat tours, the ferry ride, a evening at the Bayside Inn Restaurant, fresh crabs or catering delivery, Smith Island cake (!!!), cart and bike rentals, donations for the Cultural Center, and incidentals at the itty bitty Exxon gas station.

Technically, It’s A “Dry Island”

What this seemed to mean (to me) is that, while the islanders themselves are very religious and you won’t find any alcohol being sold on Smith Island, you can bring your own and partake discreetly. The main Smith Island website plainly states this, our cottage information confirmed it, and we were even invited to a local happy hour while there. We casually enjoyed our Maryland Meadworks mead and wine and cider while there without issue. Just be aware and be respectful, check with your proprietor before bringing alcohol, and don’t make a scene.

A historical marker for Smith Island stands in front of a charming white church with a brown shingle roof. The sign provides information about the island's history and early settlers, while the church's architecture, including its steeple and stained glass windows, adds to the quaint and historical ambiance of the scene.

Convenient Store

It seems silly to say this since the island is so tiny, but it took us a while to locate the convenient store. It’s right at the Exxon station where the boats fuel up, on the back side of the building facing the water. Cash only, of course. Super small. But it has candy, sodas, some food items, and a small toiletry selection.

There Were Bugs

Lots of bugs. So bring bug spray, bring antihistamines, and bring Band-aids. They weren’t so bad out on the water, but on land, they were really unpleasant, I’ll be honest. And there was one sort of brown fly that was particularly persistent. I’m sure the type and quantity vary depending on the time of year, so maybe we just picked a bad time. And, if you’re spending most of your time on the water, it shouldn’t be a huge deal anyway. But come prepared.

There Are Jellyfish

Really not a big deal, but just a heads up. We never happened to see any because the rainfall had been so heavy, but there are little jellies in the Chesapeake. The locals call them “nettles.”

Respect The Marshes

Duh, right? But, seriously:

Be safe.
Respect the birdlife.
Appropriately discard your litter.
Don’t go walking around through the marshland; you can get stuck.
Make sure you have a waterway map on you.
And, bring water on any excursions.

A stunning sunset over a calm body of water, with the sky transitioning from deep blue to vibrant shades of orange and pink near the horizon. Silhouettes of trees and landforms are visible in the distance, adding to the tranquil and picturesque nature of the scene.

Get There Soon

It’s worth mentioning that Smith Island has lost over 3,300 acres of wetland in recent years due to rising sea levels. A 50-year-long restoration project is in the works in the hopes of getting back some 2,000 acres of it.

And, as is the case with all things awesome in this world, I don’t think the island will stay a secret for very long. The neighboring Tangier Island has reportedly already been taken over by younger couples buying vacation properties and, of course, the local island flavor gets more and more depleted because of it. (So we were told.)

What this all means is you just need to get there soon to truly enjoy Smith Island in all its quirk and splendor.

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